Tuesday, 23 December 2014

Timberpro Chainsaws vs The best of 2014

I've made it no secret on this blog that Timberpro are my go to guys when it comes to buying gardening equipment online.And as a sort of my test to see if my resolve was all worth it, I have got the good and bad points about the best chainsaws of 2014 and we're going to pit the Timberpro machines against them!

Before we begin however I would like to point out I'm going to be highlighting 3 important factors:
  1. Quality
  2. Price
  3. Ease of Use

Comparison Time!

The 5 machines below are absolutely brutal machines that perform their jobs to an exceptional degree provided you have the know-how and if you have the pockets that are deep enough!

Price: The Timberpro range blows the machines above out of the water in terms of price. The husqvarna 460 ranger costs a staggering 300 pounds whereas the timberpro 62cc costs a mere 80 pound in comparison

Quality.: Husqvarna are known for their chainsaw building flair and technique and their machine in the hands of a capable garden can do things that some people may not have thought possible with a chainsaw.

Ease of Use: The best of 2014 are made with experienced gardeners in mind and people who have picked up and operated a 100 different chainsaws in their lifetime. The Timberpro range is built with simplicity and ease of use in mind for the average homeowner to be able to use with zero experience and an instruction manual.
On this basis I have to give it to the Timberpro and I will continue shopping with them as you should do to!

Wednesday, 17 December 2014

Stable Greenhouse Conditions and Backup Generators

We're now into December and the weathers getting colder, more windy and more unpredictable. And with turbulent weather comes power cuts and power shortages. This can prove to be a dastardly time for gardeners using greenhouses to replicate delicate conditions for their plants in this unforgiving season as slight power failures could spell death for all their hard work and dedication. However companies like Timberpro have found a way for gardeners in the UK to minimise this risk as much as possible with the use of backup generators. 

Backup Generators

Backup generators are the UK gardeners way of fighting back. These generators will act as a safety measure in case of a power shortage to ensure that your plants get the climate they need to thrive. And before you ever think that setting up a generator seems like an awful lot of work and it will be very difficult this can be quite easy depending on which generator you buy and always remember if you are even a little worried about how your generator is setup you can always call an electrician who can do it for you for a small cost.

Wednesday, 10 December 2014

5 Tips to Prolong Your Lawnmowers Life

Lawnmowers are expensive pieces of kit, and just like most expensive machines you will get a good few years out of it before you eventually have to get rid and get a new one. But also like most machines there are plenty of ways of delaying this inevitable moment.

Using The Correct Fuel

This one is very self explanatory but the highest cause for lawnmowers breaking is because of incorrect fuel. Briggs and Stratton personally recommend never using fuel with more than 10 percent ethanol rating as this is a sure fire way to be sending your lawnmower to the morgue sooner rather than later.

Store Your Mower Properly

A lawnmower is definitely not a yard dog. If you leave your lawnmower open to the elements then you'll be lucky if it even starts when you want it to never mind perform at its best. Rust and corrosion can spell an early death for a lawnmower so keep it stored somewhere inside and dry!

Tire Pressure

If you ever find that your lawnmower is not cutting your lawn evenly there is no need to panic. You do not need to fork out for a new lawnmower... probably. Try checking the tire pressure as this is very simple to fix and can end up saving you a little bomb.

Clean the Mower Deck

The mower deck can be a cesspool for "gunk" that builds up and sticks. If left until it has to be cleaned your going to need a chisel and hammer however if you regularly clean the mower deck you will just need a sponge. You know what to do guys.

Basic Lawnmower Maintenance

Each lawnmower will have its own little quirks and tricks so the best way to keep your lawnmower fighting fit is by reading the manual and following the brand owners maintenance instructions! That's right guys just pick up the manual, I swear it doesn't bite.

Tuesday, 18 November 2014

Planning Permission For Fences

It's all very well going out and buying your new fence, getting the tools and then setting it up in your garden but the real question is "Are you allowed"? There is suprisingly a lot of legislation regarding whether or not you can ahve a certain fence on your property. These legislations actually differ depending on where you live and each case has to be looked at individually.

Use the below information as a check list to ensure that your fence will become a permanent feature of your property.

Planning Permissions Regarding Fences, Walls and Gates

  1. You will require planning permission for any new fence, gate or wall over 2m in height.   This will normally include the addition of trellis panels on top of an existing fence if this takes the overall height to above 2m.  This may technically also include the addition of wires and brackets to carry a climbing shrub, although this can sometimes be open to interpretation
  2. You do not require planning permission to grow a thorny plant along the top of your 2m fence (providing there are no support structures over 2 metres) unless there are covenants or restrictions.  Check with your local planning authority
  3. If the new fence or wall borders or adjoins a public highway used for vehicles you may need planning permission if it is higher than 1 metre
  4. If you live in an area, which has open planned front gardens there is likely to be a covenant restricting the erection of any fence or hedge to the front of the dwelling and you must therefore refer to the local planning authority before you carry out any work
  5. If you live in a listed building or your property borders a listed building then you may need planning permission before you carry out any work on your boundary fence or wall
  6. You do not normally need planning permission to plant a hedge, but you should check with the local planning authority first as you will have responsibilities to maintain the hedge so that it does not cause a nuisance to others.  (See High hedges below)
  7. Before you carry out any work on your boundaries do check with the local planning authority first to see if there are any restrictions or if you need planning permission 

Well I hope this saved you a nightmare down the road or put those worries to rest. Back again next week!

Friday, 7 November 2014

3 Ways to Prepare Your Garden for Winter

Rake your leaves

If you only do one thing to prepare, do this. Leaves will smother your grass and turn it into a dirt patch (and next spring the neighbour kids will come over to play on the new “vacant lot”). If your aches, pains and other excuses are pretty convincing then hire your local 15 year-old to do it for you so he can buy more toilet paper for your yard, oh, wait-a-minute…

You can save some of the leaves to put on your flowerbed to help prevent an early crop of weeds in the spring. When it warms up, rake, plant and you may win a prize for the best geraniums.


Late fall (about a month before it usually freezes) is the best time to fertilize your lawn because it’s hungry! It’s been slurping nutrients out of the soil all summer to grow leaves and there’s not much left to eat. Fertilizing in the fall will help the roots survive hibernation and wake up quickly in the spring. A quick start in the spring will help prevent disease and weeds.

Cut your grass short

For most moist/wet climates you may want to give your grass a buzz cut before the snow flies. Generally, homeowners will mow twice in October and once in November because the grass is barely growing. Instead of skipping weeks in October, it can be better to drop the blade height one notch and mow every week until the grass is about three-fourths of an inch tall. This will prevent a build up of dead grass in the spring that may smother new growth. If you live in an arid climate (20 inches or less of rain per year) and you don’t have automatic sprinklers, skip weeks when the grass is barely growing. A moderate buildup of dead grass will help hold in ground moisture over the winter.

Friday, 24 October 2014

Straight Forward Instructions to Sharpening your Axe

Straight Forward Instructions to Sharpening your Axe

  1. Clamp the axe to your workbench so the edge of the axe hangs off the edge of the bench.
  2. Put your gloves on so you don’t cut your hand!
  3. Using a pushing stroke into the edge of the axe.  File at an angle, not straight at the edge.  Filing straight on will cause the file to chatter, producing an obnoxious screeching noise.  It also causes a rough uneven file marks.  File at a slight angle toward the middle of the axe.  Follow the rounded contour of the bit.  Don’t file too much away from the corners of the axe, since that’s the weakest part of the blade and most likely to chip off. 
  4. The file needs to be cleaned frequently to be effective.  Use a wire brush to clear the metal filings by stroking with the rows of teeth. Push the file for the cutting stroke, but don’t drag the file back.  Dragging the file back dulls the teeth and once it’s dull you can’t re-sharpen it.
  5. Flip the axe over and clamp it back down.
  6. File the other side of the axe in the same manner described in step 3.
  7. Un-clamp your axe.  Hold the axe with one hand with the axe handle under your arm.  In your other hand you’ll hold your axe stone with your fingers clear of the grinding surface.
  8. Start with the course side of the axe stone.  Use a circular motion into the edge of the axe.  Try to polish out any of the file marks.  You want to make it one continuously smooth cutting edge with no lumps or bumps.  Once a burr develops on the opposite side, flip the axe over so the handle points away from you.
  9. Use the course stone to polish the second side.  Use a circular motion into the edge of the axe. Once a burr develops on the opposite side, stop.
  10. Repeat steps 7 and 8 using the fine side of the axe stone.  A very fine ribbon of metal will cling to the edge.  You may not be able to see it.  You need to strop the edge to remove this fine ribbon of metal.
  11. Strop the axe using a leather belt or honing/stropping material.  Hang your stropping material on the wall with a nail.
  12. With one hand hold the bit, with the other hand pull the strop taught.
  13. With the edge of the bit away from you and at 35 or 40 degrees to the strop, pull the the bit toward you with moderate pressure.    Then flip the bit over and push the bit away from you with the edge facing you.  Do this a dozen times.
  14. Once you’re satisfied, rub oil and then beeswax over the entire metal bit.  This will protect the metal from moisture and rust.
  15. Sheath the axe in a leather case so the edge doesn’t get damaged and so someone doesn’t get hurt.
  16. Go try the axe out!

Friday, 17 October 2014

1 Through 5 on How to Leaf Blow

Handling and Working a Leaf Blower
A leaf blower has the simplest name in the world and this is very misleading. Leaf blowers can be difficult pieces of kit to work but hopefully the following 5 steps will have you up and running and blowing in no time.
  1. Set the switch to the "Start / Stop" position. Most gas-powered leaf blowers will have a switch on the body with 2 settings: "Run" and "Start / Stop." Set the switch to "Start / Stop."
  2. Prime the leaf blower. Locate the small, flexible plastic bubble near the gas tank. Push this button down 2 or 3 times with your finger. This creates suction that pulls gasoline into the bubble to be used when starting the leaf blower. This step is not necessary for an electric model.
  3. Crank the leaf blower's motor. Grab the pull cord firmly and quickly pull it to its full length. Do this several times until you hear the motor begin running continuously.
  4. Flip the switch to the "Run" position. In this position, the leaf blower will begin running continuously while blowing out air.
  5. Begin blowing the leaves towards their destination. To blow leaves, hold the leaf blower with your arm at your side, pointing the shaft of the leaf blower at a shallow angle towards the ground. Walk slowly and sweep the leaf blower in a smooth back-and-forth motion in front of you. Plan where you will pile your leaves ahead of time. It is a good idea to lay a tarp down in the designated spot, so that you can easily drag your leaves to your compost pile when finished. If possible, work in 1 direction only. Blowing leaves in only 1 direction will keep you from having to backtrack. It will also keep you from accidentally blowing leaves into an area that you have already cleared.

Wednesday, 1 October 2014

Tips & Tricks for Lawn Mowing a Garden

These 10 tips and tricks will have you lawn mowering with some of the best in the world. Just kidding but they sure will help you make your garden look like the garden you want it to:

  1. Each run up the lawn with the lawn mower should slightly overlap the previous one; put a mark on each side of the mower as your ‘overlap marker’
  2. If you want 'straight stripes’ on a large lawn or a lawn without a straight edge begin by mowing a straight line down the middle of the lawn. Now mow on either side of it
  3. Don’t worry about cutting ALL the grass at the edges of the lawn; if you do a final cut all around the perimeter of the lawn once or twice you’ll get all the end bits and add a ‘professional’ frame to your mowing
  4. If your lawnmower has a roller change mowing direction at least every month
  5. If your mower has four wheels you MUST overlap each run so that the wheels do not go in the same place all the time. Repeated grass cutting in the same track will produce ruts and tramlines!
  6. If the grass is damp or long slow down your speed (not the blade speed)
  7. If you are ‘scalping’ the lawn in some places (high spots) raise the mowing height. Scalped areas will often be mossy and/or weedy
  8. Mow slopes and shady areas one setting higher than the rest of the lawn
  9. If the lawn has a ‘silver sheen’ or ‘frayed’ look after mowing the blade(s) need sharpening
  10. If you’re using a cylinder mower and the blade stutters or produces a ribbed or rippled effect in the lawn then either the mower is blunt or under powered or the grass is too long or too wet - slow down your lawn mowing speed and mow more frequently

Friday, 26 September 2014

How to Properly Cut Wood... with a Chainsaw

The first factor that you must determine when cutting fire wood is whether or not to use an axe or a chainsaw. For the purposes of this blog post I am going to assume you chose the chainsaw (which in my opinion is the much better option anyway). We're going to take you through finding a place to cut to general safety advice.

Finding the best location to cut your wood

The best location to up your wood is somewhere that there is an abundance of woo (duh!) that has already been felled or is dead. The reason for this is felling a tree is a very difficult skill in itself and should only really be attempted by someone with experience in the industry. It is not an impossible skill to learn on your own but having help as a first timer would definitely be a huge help and will help avoid property damage or bodily injury.

Chainsaw Safety

  • Wear safety glasses to protect against sawdust and flying debris
  • Wear hearing protection, especially if using a loud saw
  • Make sure clothing (overalls, hats, gloves, boots) do not obstruct your ability to operate the saw.
  • Cut with a partner if possible and keep a cell phone nearby in case of accident
  • Identify any tree limbs that might be under tension. These limbs will act as a spring or catapult when the tension is released by cutting
  • Keep hands and other body parts away from a running chainsaw.
  • Wear hearing protection if the saw is particularly loud
Follow these rules in order to avoid or limit any accidents! Chainsaws may come with a lot of safety features but they are still dangerous pieces of machinery. The best advice is to exercise caution and follow the instruction manual to a tee!

Cutting the wood

Stance: You need to stand in a way that provides upper-body support and prevents fatigue. Your feet should be spread slightly further than shoulder-length, which will help your upper body support the saw. Be careful of loose footing, such as cut pieces of wood, branches, and animal holes.

Technique: There are generally two directions to cut, upwards and downwards. Most wood is cut best by placing the saw above the wood and cutting down through it (above left). Gravity will usually pull the cut piece away from the log and you can continue cutting in this fashion. But in some cases when the log or branch is under tension, cutting from the top down will cause the wood to pinch causing the saw to become stuck within the cut. In this case, it is best to cut upwards (above right) by placing the saw beneath the wood and cutting up through it.  Using the plastic wedge can help keep larger logs from pinching the saw chain

Branches First: With most fallen trees, it is best to begin cutting at the branch end first. Start by cutting off all branches that are too small for firewood. Place the saw at the base of these branches and cut them off smooth at the part of the limb or log where they are attached.

Balance: Look for branches that may be holding the trunk above the ground. These branches act as props and can be helpful in keeping the trunk elevated for easy cutting. You should observe the complete structure of the tree and plan your cutting in a logical order, removing most props last.

Trunks: As you progress from the top of the tree towards the trunk, the diameter of the wood will gradually thicken. You will still be cutting upwards or downwards, only it will be necessary to work the saw at different angles. Cut the wood at two 45 degree angles, or in the form of an A-framed house. When both sides of the logs are evenly cut, you should finish the piece by cutting directly downward or upward.

Dirt & Debris: Nothing will cause your saw to dull quicker than cutting into the dirt. This is why you should allow branches and other natural props to keep the wood lifted above the ground.

Half-Cut Technique: If a trunk is too heavy to lift from the ground, try cutting it into smaller sections of about six feet in length.  Pre-cut each section to the size of firewood you want, leaving about two inches of each cut unfinished. Then roll the section over, exposing the uncut side. Carefully place the saw into each cut and finish the pieces of firewood. This will make cutting trunks easy and will keep your saw chain from hitting the dirt.

Wednesday, 17 September 2014

5 Quick Ways to Get Rid of Garden Weeds

5 Quick Ways to Get Rid of Garden Weeds

1. Pull them…
Sure this sounds simple, but anyone who has tried to keep up with weeds by pulling them knows that it’s not always so easy. For weeds close to your herbs or veggies in raised beds and containers, it’s often the best way to go. The best time to pull weeds is when the soil is still moist from watering. Pull slowly from the base of the weed to get the best chance of pulling a root out and make sure to use garden gloves for spiny plants like thistles.

You can collect all the weeds you’ve pulled and add them to your compost pile, so they’re actually contributing to the health of your garden. Some weeds, like Dandelions, Purslane and Miner’s Lettuce are edible and can be absolutely delicious. If this interests you, find a foraging guide that was written for your area and make sure you’ve positively identified something before serving it for dinner.

2. Suffocate them…
Just like the plants you actually want in your garden beds, weeds have a hard time surviving without adequate sunlight. You can kill existing weeds, prevent new ones from growing, AND help keep moisture in the soil for the plants you do want using a little bit of old newspaper and some garden mulch. Simply cover the area with several layers of large newspaper strips (newspaper is biodegradable), then put enough mulch on top of the paper to cover it completely. If some strong weeds manage to push through your first attempt, just add another layer of newspaper and then some more mulch.

3. Mix up some homemade herbicide….
Get a good quality spray bottle and fill it with 2 c. white vinegar, ½ c. salt and a tiny bit of dish soap. Make sure you mix it up very well so the salt dissolves as much as possible or the spray bottle might get clogged up. Be careful using this remedy near your garden beds because it could kill your veggies as well. If you’re having trouble with the sprayer getting clogged you can also try a 50/50 vinegar and water solution.

4. Scald Them…
Next time you’re boiling potatoes or pasta, instead of dumping the water down the drain, dump it right onto the weeds growing in the cracks of your sidewalk or patio or along garden paths. Don’t try this method with garden beds as it will damage the quality of your soil and kill anything it touches.

5. Salt Them…
This is another method you need to be very careful with and is best for areas where you don’t want anything to grow again, ever. But a simple sprinkling of salt along the edges of your lawn, between cracks in the sidewalk or in garden pathways will kill weeds. Be careful though, it leaves the soil barren and can damage concrete. At the end of the snowy season you can usually get a pretty good deal on rock salt, which works great for this, but any kind of salt will do.

Friday, 8 August 2014

Hedge Trimmer Guide

How to operate a hedge trimmer

The electric hedge trimmer is the most commonly used in the UK. While petrol and battery operated hedge trimmers are available, electric trimmers are popular, due to their relatively low cost and ease of use. Using a hedge trimmer is relatively simple and generally just requires some common sense.
Before you start

First off check the weather. Never cut your bushes or hedges in the rain. This is especially important when using an electric hedge trimmer. This is basic safety advice when using any electric power tool, not just hedge trimmers – remember water and electricity does not mix!

If the weather is fine to work in, check your equipment is in good working order and not damaged in any way. If your hedge trimmer is damaged you should either have it fixed by a trained professional or buy a new one. Hedge trimmers are readily available to buy in the UK in most retailers or garden centres. If using an electric hedge trimmer ensure you have enough cable to reach where you need to go. If the standard cable that comes with the hedge trimmer is not long enough, you can attach an extension lead. Never use more than one extension cable at one time.

Next check that the environment you are about to work in. Is it safe? Are there children or pets running around the garden? If so, rope or mark off an area or safe zone so that they cannot enter where you will be using the hedge trimmer. This will prevent them knocking you when cutting your hedges and hurting you or themselves.

Ensure you are wearing appropriate clothing and footwear. The clothing you chose to wear should allow you to move freely, be sturdy and tight fitting. This should provide some protection if required and be out the way, allowing you to see clearly where you are cutting and to avoid them getting snagged on branches as you cut. You should also wear study non-slip shoes to provide you with a strong footing when using your hedge trimmer. Goggles and gloves are also recommended.

The last thing you need to do is go outside and pick out any dead leaves or debris that may be stuck in your hedge. This will stop debris from jamming your hedge trimmer and make cutting a whole lot easier.

How to cut your hedge 

Now you and your hedge trimmer are ready to start work. Move towards your hedge and stand a comfortable distance away gaining a shore footing. If you are using an electric hedge trimmer ensure the cord is behind you and out of the way. By cutting away from the power source it will ensure the cable is always trailing away from you.

Holding the hedge trimmer in two hands, turn on your hedge trimmer and begin cutting the hedge or bush from the bottom up in a circular motion. This should help sweep the branches away from the hedge and allow you to see where you are cutting next. Work at a speed that is comfortable and take your time. Accidents often happen when people rush things.

If your hedges are large or require a lot of trimming, you may prefer to tidy as you go. By placing a sheet on the floor before you start, allows you to easily collect the cuttings in one place. You can then easily pick them up to dispose of them in your garden waste bin, or add them to your compost heap.

When you get round to cutting the top of the hedge, hold the hedge trimmer straight out in front of you and cut using a sideway motion to get a nice tidy finish.

If cutting taller hedges and are using a hedge trimmer with a telescopic pole like the Flymo SabreCut, you will need to extend the pole to the appropriate height and tilt the blade to a 90 degree angle. When using this take care and avoid any falling debris as you are cutting.

After cutting 

After cutting your hedges it is important that you clean your hedge trimmer. During cutting it is likely that sap and debris from the bushes has become stuck in the blades and teeth. Leaving this debris in the hedge trimmer will make it more difficult and less efficient for your trimmer to cut the hedges next you need to do it.

Turn off the machine and place it on a suitable work surface. Gentle remove any loose debris and, clean the blade following the manufacturers guidance. If you are using a petrol hedge trimmer you may be required to lubricate the teeth with appropriate oil. Always follow the manufacturer’s advice when cleaning the product to maintain its warranty.

Friday, 1 August 2014

Chainsaw chain types

A chainsaw is a portable mechanical saw that is powered by electricity, or most commonly – a two-stroke engine. It is mainly used to fell and prune trees, in clearing foliage and removing branches, in assisting to cut fire brakes and harvest wood for fire. In Finland, chainsaws are used to cut ice for winter swimming.

Only specialists with particular training can handle a chainsaw. In inexperienced hands, chainsaws can lead to horrible accidents and deaths.Unless someone is a professional and has experience with handling a chain saw, it is very easy to be confused about the different types of chainsaw chains. Here are the different types of chainsaw chains described and differentiated.
Full Chisel Chains cuts through all types of wood faster than any other chain types, and needs more careful sharpening. However, they dull faster, especially if used to cut soft woods. Their only distinction is that they cut faster.
Semi Chisel Chains take longer to dull than Full Chisel chains when used on soft wood.
Ripping Chains are special purpose chains with shallow-angle cutters that are used in chainsaw mills and in cutting out planks from wood. It specialized in giving the planks a smooth finish due to the angle cutters.
Skip Chains works with at least a 66cc chainsaw, or bigger. There are two blank links between the cutters in this type of chain, and is therefore able to take bigger bites of wood in one cut. However, this requires more pressure on the saw, and as a result needs more power. Larger gaps mean less clogging of chain and of course, more clearance of the waste materials.
Square Ground Chains are for professional use, and sharpen with a type of flat file; more commonly, a triangular file. It is very fast, but a real pain to sharpen.
In a nutshell, it can be said that, depending on the wood, it is better to decide on a full or semi-chisel chain for amateur work. Do not go for a Ripping Chain unless you have a sawmill to use in at, or a Square Ground Chain if you are not a professional. Handle your chainsaw with extreme care; it is a dangerous tool.

Tuesday, 1 July 2014

Starting a Timberpro 58cc Petrol Chainsaw

Starting a chainsaw is a task that not many new chainsaw buyers think of when going to buy their first ever chainsaw and with good reason right? I mean you just have to flick a switch or pull a cord right?


A bit like trying to start a car for the first time, it is not as easy as it looks, unless you know exactly what you are doing in which case it is pretty easy. The purpose of this article is to ahoq you exactly what you are doing with the timberpro 58cc petrol chainsaw so it can be pretty easy for you/

If you start the video at 3:18 that will take you straight to starting the chainsaw! However a lot of other helpful information is available via the timberpro youtube channel!

Thursday, 26 June 2014

Identifying the Parts of a Chainsaw

Before you even think about touching a chainsaw you gotta know what you are actually touching. A chainsaw isn't a toy and knowledge can keep you safe from harm while operating a chainsaw, not to mention this is the basics of basics for a lot of chainsaw maintenance. To  make things a little easier we have down a quick picture for you identifying the parts:

 Petrol Chainsaws

and now that we have identified the chainsaw parts we just need to know what they all contribute to the machine which this excellent blog post "Chainsaw Parts Explained" ahem explains,

Monday, 16 June 2014

How to use a Power Auger

For the experienced practitioner this can seem like a bit of a daft question but to the struggling novice this may be a life - or arm - saving article. I think the best way of starting this article is to just have a look at the different types of augers on the market.

The Power Auger

A power auger is a very powerful machine as the name suggests and another pair of strong hands may be required to control the machine. Needless to say the power auger is very effective at digging holes quickly but this does not mean it will be a walk in the park and there will be a lot of physical exertion with this particular machine.
  1. Dig a pilot hole
  2. Position the power with the help of a friend if it is a two person auger
  3. Turn on the machine and slowly increase the throttle
  4. Be careful not to dig too deep!

Health & Safety

Thee items of clothing that you should definitely be wearing when operating a power auger:
  1. Steel Toe Boots
  2. Leather Gloves
  3. Protective Eye Wear
All the clothing is pretty obvious for why you should wear it but the eye wear cannot be stressed enough. Stones and other bits of debris can shoot up and if one of those hits you in the eye, its not worth thinking about. Wear the glasses if nothing else.

Friday, 13 June 2014

Digging up Your Garden DIY Style

Digging up Your Garden DIY Style

Digging up your garden isn't especially tricky and anyone with a little bit of knowledge and work ethic can get it done with minimal training and expertise. This really begs the question why hire a gardener who will charge x amount per hour when on a Sunday you can really just dig in and get it done yourself. 

Well the reason is if you make mistakes it can leave your garden looking a right mess. So I am here to talk you through how to dig up your garden DIY style!

When to dig

Digging the soil is essential for good plant growth. If the soil condition is poor organic matter can be added at the same time as digging. The best time to dig is from October through December, when the soil is free of frost and can be left to overwinter. From mid-winter until early spring, the ground is frequently wet or frozen and difficult to work with. Heavy soil must never be dug when it's wet as this can damage the soil structure and lead to poor aeration and drainage.

The depth of your topsoil, quality of drainage and whether or not your plot has been previously cultivated, will all determine the digging method required. Single and double digging are the most effective and labour-efficient digging techniques. Before digging, make sure the site is clear of all persistent weeds.

How to dig

The depth of your topsoil, quality of drainage and whether or not your plot has been previously cultivated, will all determine the digging method required. Single and double digging are the most effective and labour-efficient digging techniques. Before digging, make sure the site is clear of all persistent weeds.

Keep an eye for future articles on different techniques with which to dig up your garden! For all your gardening tool equipment please check out our sponsors Timberpro!