Planning Permission For Fences

It's all very well going out and buying your new fence, getting the tools and then setting it up in your garden but the real question is "Are you allowed"? There is suprisingly a lot of legislation regarding whether or not you can ahve a certain fence on your property. These legislations actually differ depending on where you live and each case has to be looked at individually.

Use the below information as a check list to ensure that your fence will become a permanent feature of your property.

Planning Permissions Regarding Fences, Walls and Gates

1. You will require planning permission for any new fence, gate or wall over 2m in height.   This will normally include the addition of trellis panels on top of an existing fence if this takes the overall height to above 2m.  This may technically also include the addition of wires and brackets to carry a climbing shrub, although this can sometimes be open to interpretation
2. You do not require planning permission to grow a thorny plant along the top of your 2m fence (providing there are no support structures over 2 metres) unless there are covenants or restrictions.  Check with your local planning authority
3. If the new fence or wall borders or adjoins a public highway used for vehicles you may need planning permission if it is higher than 1 metre
4. If you live in an area, which has open planned front gardens there is likely to be a covenant restricting the erection of any fence or hedge to the front of the dwelling and you must therefore refer to the local planning authority before you carry out any work
5. If you live in a listed building or your property borders a listed building then you may need planning permission before you carry out any work on your boundary fence or wall
6. You do not normally need planning permission to plant a hedge, but you should check with the local planning authority first as you will have responsibilities to maintain the hedge so that it does not cause a nuisance to others.  (See High hedges below)
7. Before you carry out any work on your boundaries do check with the local planning authority first to see if there are any restrictions or if you need planning permission 

Well I hope this saved you a nightmare down the road or put those worries to rest. Back again next week!

3 Ways to Prepare Your Garden for Winter

Rake your leaves

If you only do one thing to prepare, do this. Leaves will smother your grass and turn it into a dirt patch (and next spring the neighbour kids will come over to play on the new “vacant lot”). If your aches, pains and other excuses are pretty convincing then hire your local 15 year-old to do it for you so he can buy more toilet paper for your yard, oh, wait-a-minute…

You can save some of the leaves to put on your flowerbed to help prevent an early crop of weeds in the spring. When it warms up, rake, plant and you may win a prize for the best geraniums.

Fertilize 

Late fall (about a month before it usually freezes) is the best time to fertilize your lawn because it’s hungry! It’s been slurping nutrients out of the soil all summer to grow leaves and there’s not much left to eat. Fertilizing in the fall will help the roots survive hibernation and wake up quickly in the spring. A quick start in the spring will help prevent disease and weeds.

Cut your grass short

For most moist/wet climates you may want to give your grass a buzz cut before the snow flies. Generally, homeowners will mow twice in October and once in November because the grass is barely growing. Instead of skipping weeks in October, it can be better to drop the blade height one notch and mow every week until the grass is about three-fourths of an inch tall. This will prevent a build up of dead grass in the spring that may smother new growth. If you live in an arid climate (20 inches or less of rain per year) and you don’t have automatic sprinklers, skip weeks when the grass is barely growing. A moderate buildup of dead grass will help hold in ground moisture over the winter.

Straight Forward Instructions to Sharpening your Axe

Straight Forward Instructions to Sharpening your Axe

1. Clamp the axe to your workbench so the edge of the axe hangs off the edge of the bench.
2. Put your gloves on so you don’t cut your hand!
3. Using a pushing stroke into the edge of the axe.  File at an angle, not straight at the edge.  Filing straight on will cause the file to chatter, producing an obnoxious screeching noise.  It also causes a rough uneven file marks.  File at a slight angle toward the middle of the axe.  Follow the rounded contour of the bit.  Don’t file too much away from the corners of the axe, since that’s the weakest part of the blade and most likely to chip off. 
4. The file needs to be cleaned frequently to be effective.  Use a wire brush to clear the metal filings by stroking with the rows of teeth. Push the file for the cutting stroke, but don’t drag the file back.  Dragging the file back dulls the teeth and once it’s dull you can’t re-sharpen it.
5. Flip the axe over and clamp it back down.
6. File the other side of the axe in the same manner described in step 3.
7. Un-clamp your axe.  Hold the axe with one hand with the axe handle under your arm.  In your other hand you’ll hold your axe stone with your fingers clear of the grinding surface.
8. Start with the course side of the axe stone.  Use a circular motion into the edge of the axe.  Try to polish out any of the file marks.  You want to make it one continuously smooth cutting edge with no lumps or bumps.  Once a burr develops on the opposite side, flip the axe over so the handle points away from you.
9. Use the course stone to polish the second side.  Use a circular motion into the edge of the axe. Once a burr develops on the opposite side, stop.
10. Repeat steps 7 and 8 using the fine side of the axe stone.  A very fine ribbon of metal will cling to the edge.  You may not be able to see it.  You need to strop the edge to remove this fine ribbon of metal.
11. Strop the axe using a leather belt or honing/stropping material.  Hang your stropping material on the wall with a nail.
12. With one hand hold the bit, with the other hand pull the strop taught.
13. With the edge of the bit away from you and at 35 or 40 degrees to the strop, pull the the bit toward you with moderate pressure.    Then flip the bit over and push the bit away from you with the edge facing you.  Do this a dozen times.
14. Once you’re satisfied, rub oil and then beeswax over the entire metal bit.  This will protect the metal from moisture and rust.
15. Sheath the axe in a leather case so the edge doesn’t get damaged and so someone doesn’t get hurt.
16. Go try the axe out!

1 Through 5 on How to Leaf Blow

Handling and Working a Leaf Blower

   

   

A leaf blower has the simplest name in the world and this is very misleading. Leaf blowers can be difficult pieces of kit to work but hopefully the following 5 steps will have you up and running and blowing in no time.

1. Set the switch to the "Start / Stop" position. Most gas-powered leaf blowers will have a switch on the body with 2 settings: "Run" and "Start / Stop." Set the switch to "Start / Stop."
2. Prime the leaf blower. Locate the small, flexible plastic bubble near the gas tank. Push this button down 2 or 3 times with your finger. This creates suction that pulls gasoline into the bubble to be used when starting the leaf blower. This step is not necessary for an electric model.
3. Crank the leaf blower's motor. Grab the pull cord firmly and quickly pull it to its full length. Do this several times until you hear the motor begin running continuously.
4. Flip the switch to the "Run" position. In this position, the leaf blower will begin running continuously while blowing out air.
5. Begin blowing the leaves towards their destination. To blow leaves, hold the leaf blower with your arm at your side, pointing the shaft of the leaf blower at a shallow angle towards the ground. Walk slowly and sweep the leaf blower in a smooth back-and-forth motion in front of you. Plan where you will pile your leaves ahead of time. It is a good idea to lay a tarp down in the designated spot, so that you can easily drag your leaves to your compost pile when finished. If possible, work in 1 direction only. Blowing leaves in only 1 direction will keep you from having to backtrack. It will also keep you from accidentally blowing leaves into an area that you have already cleared.

Tips & Tricks for Lawn Mowing a Garden

These 10 tips and tricks will have you lawn mowering with some of the best in the world. Just kidding but they sure will help you make your garden look like the garden you want it to:

1. Each run up the lawn with the lawn mower should slightly overlap the previous one; put a mark on each side of the mower as your ‘overlap marker’
2. If you want 'straight stripes’ on a large lawn or a lawn without a straight edge begin by mowing a straight line down the middle of the lawn. Now mow on either side of it
3. Don’t worry about cutting ALL the grass at the edges of the lawn; if you do a final cut all around the perimeter of the lawn once or twice you’ll get all the end bits and add a ‘professional’ frame to your mowing
4. If your lawnmower has a roller change mowing direction at least every month
5. If your mower has four wheels you MUST overlap each run so that the wheels do not go in the same place all the time. Repeated grass cutting in the same track will produce ruts and tramlines!
6. If the grass is damp or long slow down your speed (not the blade speed)
7. If you are ‘scalping’ the lawn in some places (high spots) raise the mowing height. Scalped areas will often be mossy and/or weedy
8. Mow slopes and shady areas one setting higher than the rest of the lawn
9. If the lawn has a ‘silver sheen’ or ‘frayed’ look after mowing the blade(s) need sharpening
10. If you’re using a cylinder mower and the blade stutters or produces a ribbed or rippled effect in the lawn then either the mower is blunt or under powered or the grass is too long or too wet - slow down your lawn mowing speed and mow more frequently

How to Properly Cut Wood... with a Chainsaw

The first factor that you must determine when cutting fire wood is whether or not to use an axe or a chainsaw. For the purposes of this blog post I am going to assume you chose the chainsaw (which in my opinion is the much better option anyway). We're going to take you through finding a place to cut to general safety advice.

Finding the best location to cut your wood

 

The best location to up your wood is somewhere that there is an abundance of woo (duh!) that has already been felled or is dead. The reason for this is felling a tree is a very difficult skill in itself and should only really be attempted by someone with experience in the industry. It is not an impossible skill to learn on your own but having help as a first timer would definitely be a huge help and will help avoid property damage or bodily injury.

 

Chainsaw Safety

• Wear safety glasses to protect against sawdust and flying debris
• Wear hearing protection, especially if using a loud saw
• Make sure clothing (overalls, hats, gloves, boots) do not obstruct your ability to operate the saw.
• Cut with a partner if possible and keep a cell phone nearby in case of accident
• Identify any tree limbs that might be under tension. These limbs will act as a spring or catapult when the tension is released by cutting
• Keep hands and other body parts away from a running chainsaw.
• Wear hearing protection if the saw is particularly loud

Follow these rules in order to avoid or limit any accidents! Chainsaws may come with a lot of safety features but they are still dangerous pieces of machinery. The best advice is to exercise caution and follow the instruction manual to a tee!

 

Cutting the wood

Stance: You need to stand in a way that provides upper-body support and prevents fatigue. Your feet should be spread slightly further than shoulder-length, which will help your upper body support the saw. Be careful of loose footing, such as cut pieces of wood, branches, and animal holes.

Technique: There are generally two directions to cut, upwards and downwards. Most wood is cut best by placing the saw above the wood and cutting down through it (above left). Gravity will usually pull the cut piece away from the log and you can continue cutting in this fashion. But in some cases when the log or branch is under tension, cutting from the top down will cause the wood to pinch causing the saw to become stuck within the cut. In this case, it is best to cut upwards (above right) by placing the saw beneath the wood and cutting up through it.  Using the plastic wedge can help keep larger logs from pinching the saw chain

Branches First: With most fallen trees, it is best to begin cutting at the branch end first. Start by cutting off all branches that are too small for firewood. Place the saw at the base of these branches and cut them off smooth at the part of the limb or log where they are attached.

Balance: Look for branches that may be holding the trunk above the ground. These branches act as props and can be helpful in keeping the trunk elevated for easy cutting. You should observe the complete structure of the tree and plan your cutting in a logical order, removing most props last.

Trunks: As you progress from the top of the tree towards the trunk, the diameter of the wood will gradually thicken. You will still be cutting upwards or downwards, only it will be necessary to work the saw at different angles. Cut the wood at two 45 degree angles, or in the form of an A-framed house. When both sides of the logs are evenly cut, you should finish the piece by cutting directly downward or upward.

Dirt & Debris: Nothing will cause your saw to dull quicker than cutting into the dirt. This is why you should allow branches and other natural props to keep the wood lifted above the ground.

Half-Cut Technique: If a trunk is too heavy to lift from the ground, try cutting it into smaller sections of about six feet in length.  Pre-cut each section to the size of firewood you want, leaving about two inches of each cut unfinished. Then roll the section over, exposing the uncut side. Carefully place the saw into each cut and finish the pieces of firewood. This will make cutting trunks easy and will keep your saw chain from hitting the dirt.

5 Quick Ways to Get Rid of Garden Weeds

5 Quick Ways to Get Rid of Garden Weeds

1. Pull them…

Sure this sounds simple, but anyone who has tried to keep up with weeds by pulling them knows that it’s not always so easy. For weeds close to your herbs or veggies in raised beds and containers, it’s often the best way to go. The best time to pull weeds is when the soil is still moist from watering. Pull slowly from the base of the weed to get the best chance of pulling a root out and make sure to use garden gloves for spiny plants like thistles.

You can collect all the weeds you’ve pulled and add them to your compost pile, so they’re actually contributing to the health of your garden. Some weeds, like Dandelions, Purslane and Miner’s Lettuce are edible and can be absolutely delicious. If this interests you, find a foraging guide that was written for your area and make sure you’ve positively identified something before serving it for dinner.

2. Suffocate them…

Just like the plants you actually want in your garden beds, weeds have a hard time surviving without adequate sunlight. You can kill existing weeds, prevent new ones from growing, AND help keep moisture in the soil for the plants you do want using a little bit of old newspaper and some garden mulch. Simply cover the area with several layers of large newspaper strips (newspaper is biodegradable), then put enough mulch on top of the paper to cover it completely. If some strong weeds manage to push through your first attempt, just add another layer of newspaper and then some more mulch.

3. Mix up some homemade herbicide….

Get a good quality spray bottle and fill it with 2 c. white vinegar, ½ c. salt and a tiny bit of dish soap. Make sure you mix it up very well so the salt dissolves as much as possible or the spray bottle might get clogged up. Be careful using this remedy near your garden beds because it could kill your veggies as well. If you’re having trouble with the sprayer getting clogged you can also try a 50/50 vinegar and water solution.

4. Scald Them…

Next time you’re boiling potatoes or pasta, instead of dumping the water down the drain, dump it right onto the weeds growing in the cracks of your sidewalk or patio or along garden paths. Don’t try this method with garden beds as it will damage the quality of your soil and kill anything it touches.

5. Salt Them…

This is another method you need to be very careful with and is best for areas where you don’t want anything to grow again, ever. But a simple sprinkling of salt along the edges of your lawn, between cracks in the sidewalk or in garden pathways will kill weeds. Be careful though, it leaves the soil barren and can damage concrete. At the end of the snowy season you can usually get a pretty good deal on rock salt, which works great for this, but any kind of salt will do.