Installing a Fence

Installing a Timber Fence

Installing a fence seems like a daunting, difficult job for those inexperienced with the process, I know it seemed that way for me! I didn't know the first thing to do or even how to start installing my fence but with some help from my more knowledgeable friends I had my fence setup in no time. Now it's time to pass on this knowledge in these easy to follow steps:

    

Digging the Fence Post Holes

Before we work out the spacing involved in the holes lets talk about the hole dimensions (for the purpose of a 6ft fence with 4x4 inch posts). The hole should be 2ft deep & 12 inches square to make for a sturdy fence that won't fall down at the slightest breeze or even all these storms we have been having.

Measure and double measure and then triple measure a length of string. Once you have ensured that this string is the exact distance you need you can use this to space out your fence posts. Make a mark on the ground where you need the fence to go in.

Installing the Fence

Place the post in the hole and make sure its the correct depth and then we move onto the fence panel. Some fences come with fixing brackets and these are very self explanatory to setup (and if not open the manual guys!) other fences you may need to use nails or woodscrews.

Concreting the Fence Posts

Concreting the fence posts is a whole other kettle of fish, especially if you want to mix your own concrete. There is a fantastic blog that has done a wonderful post on this and can explain it much better than I can here.

Axe Types

Before you choose an axe it is important you know what it is you are looking for to fit your desired purpose of this axe. Cutting, shaping or splitting.

Cutting axe

Cutting axes are very thin as they are used to penetrate across grain. This thinness means that it presents max force on small area similar to a razor blade in this respect. This causes it to sever instead of wedge which makes it less useful for splitting but great at cutting.

Splitting axes

A splitting axe has a wide angle blade and when slammed onto a log it has a wedge like action and forces the log apart. It expends all its energy in this way and therefore causes a deep split that forces the grain apart. Because of this it cannot be used to cut across grain as it will not penetrate nearly deep enough and will lead to a shallow cut.

Curved or Straight bit

A curved bit means only a small point of the wood will be in contact with the axe at a time and this aids in wood penetration either with or across the grain. A flat bit gives an even cut rather than a deep cut and there are varieties on this theme. The broad axe has a flat bit and a ramp on one side. This allows it to cut out a very flat section of wood but for general purposes a rounded bit is much more versatile.

Single or double bit

The single bit axe is more common and has certain advantages such as its design is optimised to put all the torque behind the one bit it has.  A double bit axe offers different advantages and is generally symmetrical around the center line. This does offer a certain amount of balance that isn't found in other single bit axes. The two blades are often ground differently to offer both splitting and cutting prowesses and therefore grants a large amount of versatility however these axes cannot be bludgeoned.

When or When Not to Buy a Top Handle Chainsaw

The decision to buy a top handle chainsaw or not depends entirely on your situation. Lots of factors come into play like will you need to use the chainsaw one handed, will you be using the chainsaw in a place where balance is key or even your current experience with chainsaws. All these factors we need to look at when asking the question, "Should I or should I not buy a top handle chainsaw?"

Benefits of a Top Handle Chainsaw

A top handle chainsaw key feature is that it does not have a rear guard. This makes the chainsaw more compact and easier to sue in tight situations. It also allows the chainsaw to be used with one hand which can come in very useful when in a tree, cutting a branch or at the side of your house if space is tight. The final key benefit of using a top handle chainsaw is that they usually have a smaller engine than a regular chainsaw which makes it the ideal starter chainsaw for beginners

Negatives of a Top Handle Chainsaw

A top handle chainsaws key drawback is that it has a smaller engine. Now while this can be a benefit for a beginner chainsawer, for a seasoned professional looking to cut down a redwood maybe a 26cc engine just doesn't cut it? Now a redwood is an extreme example but even large trees in the garden can be a lot more difficult to cut without that bigger engine that the top handle chainsaw simply does not have.

Conclusion on "When or When Not to Buy a Top Handle Chainsaw"

You should buy a top handle chainsaw when you have a smallish garden where you may need to cut branches of trees and space is tight. Also if you are new to chainsaws a top handle chainsaw is a fantastic way to start.

You should not buy a top handle chainsaw when the amount of work that is required is substantial and large objects need cutting.

Disposing of Garden Waste

There are a large number of ways to dispose of garden waste. The cost has a large variety and some methods are better for certain jobs so here are 5 for you to choose from.

  

Calling the Council

These include calling the council some of which but not all will provide home collection of garden waste for which green waste may charge a small fee but it isn't too expensive.

Skip

There is the option of a skip which can cost quite a bit and take some time to get to you so there's also the alternative of hippobags. This method tends to be the best for larger jobs and having a skip is one of the easiest methods.

Hippo Bags

They don't have the same capacity so a skip would be the better option nut they are a lot faster getting to you. They come flat packed ordered on-line or they can be bought in most DIY stores. This is cheaper than a skip or calling a guy.

Call a Guy

  

Go through your yellow pages and find anyone doing garden waste in your area. Call them and leave the waste for them. This is the most convenient method but also the most expensive.

Recycle

  

You could also take your waste to a recycle bank. This is the greener option but it does carry the issue of transporting waste. If there isn't too much this is easily done if you have hippobags.

This blog is provided by Timberpro

Digging Holes in Frozen Ground

Digging a hole n any season is a difficult job that requires a lot of effort and exertion. Digging a hole in winter however is a whole other kettle of fish that will leave you frustrated. cold and, after the first 3 hours, maybe a little dead on the inside. To help avoid all that unnecessary pain and anguish here is 3 methods for digging a hole in Winter.

The Kettle Method

This method is a little risky but an be the fastest way to unfreeze a patch of dirt. The idea is to constantly have boiling hot water being poured over the ground in order to heat it up. This is best done using two kettles though one will suffice. The risk with this method is if the ground and general atmosphere is really cold, the water may just freeze and make the ground even harder to dig up.

The Fire Method

This method dates back a very long time when people used to dig graves in Winter using their hands or very rudimentary tools. You basically build and light a fire (charcoal fire would be ideal) over the area of ground you wish to dig and tend to it for a few hours. This warms up the ground and makes your digging a lot easier.

Buy/Hire High Powered Equipment

There is special equipment available on the market for digging holes and for digging holes in Winter. This equipment may set you back but remember you can use it all year for the rest of time (provided they last that long) . If money is an issue you can always hire the equipment out or a company who specialises in the industry. This is the most expensive option but will definitely make your life a lot easier.

How to Perform Pressure Washer Maintenance

Not many people know of easy ways to prolong the life of their washers so here are a few maintenance tips to get the most out of your equipment.

Check the Oil

You can check the engine and fuel level and if need be top up either the fuel or oil. You may also change the oil if the is a manufacturer recommended oil in the operator's manual. You can also check the tires pressure but keep it at the value marked on the tires or if there isn't one keep it between 15 and 25 PSI.

Check Screens

Check the water inlet screen or the in line screen and flush them with water if they are dirty. If the inlet screen is damaged replace the screen and rubber washer. If the in line screen is damaged replace the screen and O-ring.

Inspect the Hoses

Inspect the high pressure hose and replace if you see any leaks, cuts, abrasions or bulging of cover or if the couplings are damaged or move. New hoses will have to exceed the maximum pressure of your washer. Also examine the cleaning detergent tube and filter. You will need to clean these if they are dirty or clogged. Examine the tube for leaks or tears and make sure it fits lightly on barbed fitting. Replace the tube or siphon/filter if either are damaged. Replace the o-rings if any connectors leak and clean nozzle orifices if clogged. Also rinse out the garden hose.

Make sure to flush the cleaning detergent from the tube and relieve the pressure in the system after each use.

How to Maintain Garden Hoses

 A skilled gardener knows that a hose is essentially a gardening tool and that they must be maintained and stored properly for it to its job. No gardener wants the frustration of a tangled or cracked hose or the wastefulness of a leaking hose.

Storage

Properly maintained a hose can last for a good many years and part of this maintenance includes putting the hose away after every use. Putting the hose away is obviously a simple task but it prevents the hose from being stood on, rotting from soil moisture or get run over by a lawn mower. The best way to put a hose away is to keep it on a crank and simply turn to reel it in. Make sure whatever you hang your hose on properly spreads out the weight to avoid any kinks developing and regardless of how you store it make sure it is not in the sun. Make sure to empty all the water and remove any attachments to the hose before putting it away for the winter. The open ends do allow for the expansion and contraction of the freezing of water the repeated freezing and thawing will weaken the fabric of the hose.

Coiling a Hose

This can be done properly with a crank but it is useful to also have the knowledge to do it yourself and it can be done in a few simple steps. Turn off the water to the hose. Hold the hose a few feet from the spigot. Bend an about 3 foot loop in the hose. Keeping hold of the hose, reach a foot or 2 further from the spigot in the same direction as the previous loop and stack these loops onto each other until the whole hose is coiled.