Monday, 10 August 2015

How to Maintain Garden Hoses

 A skilled gardener knows that a hose is essentially a gardening tool and that they must be maintained and stored properly for it to its job. No gardener wants the frustration of a tangled or cracked hose or the wastefulness of a leaking hose.

Storage


Properly maintained a hose can last for a good many years and part of this maintenance includes putting the hose away after every use. Putting the hose away is obviously a simple task but it prevents the hose from being stood on, rotting from soil moisture or get run over by a lawn mower. The best way to put a hose away is to keep it on a crank and simply turn to reel it in. Make sure whatever you hang your hose on properly spreads out the weight to avoid any kinks developing and regardless of how you store it make sure it is not in the sun. Make sure to empty all the water and remove any attachments to the hose before putting it away for the winter. The open ends do allow for the expansion and contraction of the freezing of water the repeated freezing and thawing will weaken the fabric of the hose.

Coiling a Hose


This can be done properly with a crank but it is useful to also have the knowledge to do it yourself and it can be done in a few simple steps. Turn off the water to the hose. Hold the hose a few feet from the spigot. Bend an about 3 foot loop in the hose. Keeping hold of the hose, reach a foot or 2 further from the spigot in the same direction as the previous loop and stack these loops onto each other until the whole hose is coiled.

Wednesday, 5 August 2015

How to Sharpen Hedge Shears with a File

Sharpening hedge shears is not a difficult task but necessary to perform when you have had them a for a while and they feel as if they are declining. It is a fairly simple task when you have the knowledge on how to do it so here is a brief overview.

Tighten the Pivot Nut


Before sharpening make sure to take a look at the pivot nut to make sure its tight before you begin. If this nut is not tight it could cause the blades to separate slightly and tear twigs instead of cleanly cutting them. After tightening the nut check the tool again to make sure it still needs sharpened. If it cuts cleanly now then the nut was the issue. If it still cuts uncleanly check that the blades aren't bent. If they are bent unloosen the bolt and tighten the blades in a vice until they are straight.

Clamp the Blade


After the blade is firmly in a vice hold the file with both hands and mimic the direction of of the bevel and make sure to move the file in one direction, away from you. As you work you should be able to see the clean metal that the file will leave and do this until the entire edge is clean and sharp. Lightly sand the back of the blade while keeping it flat and moving it in a circular motion. When the burrs left by the fil are gone repeat the entire process on the other blade. After finishing you should try the blades to see how well they cut and remember that thick branches and dry wood can bend the blades so they should only be used for small diameter green wood.

Tuesday, 28 July 2015

How to repair a Deck Stair

Deck stairs carry a lot more traffic than any other part of the deck and are therefore the first to need repaired or replaced. Deck stairs are also not very difficult to replace because you have the old, broken part to use as a template.

Check the broken part


Before making the replacement you need to check the broken part in case the break was caused by the design of the stair such as the tread being too thin.

Create the new part


Measuring the gap and using the broken part as a guide you will need to make a replacement part the exact same size.

Fit the new part


Fit the new part and make sure the deck stairs are fully serviceable by just going up and down the stairs a few times making sure the stair structure and deck are working perfectly.

The stringers


The stringers may also be the part that breaks first but replacing these can be just as simple.

Check Damage


Look at the damage to see what you can do about it. Because it supports the stairs its not so easy to remove while you make the new one. However the stringer can be measured accurately enough while still in the stairs.

Replace it


Make sure the new stringer is addas the old one is removed to continuously support the stairs.


Thursday, 23 July 2015

How to Drain a Chainsaw Gas Tank

Before putting your chainsaw away for the winter/too cold to garden months draining the fuel tank is vitally important. Oil can freeze and cause damage to the chainsaw not to mention if a leak where to develop in the coming weeks there could be potential for a serious accident to occur. With this is mind here are some easy step by steps to drain that fuel tank:

  1. Wipe any dirt/dust away from the gas tank lid and the top of the gas tank with a clean rag. This will prevent any debris from falling into the gas and possibly forming a blockage in the fuel lines or carburetor.
  2. Move to a well-ventilated area and unscrew the lid of the gas tank on the chainsaw. Situate your plastic gas can within reach and remove its lid as well.
  3. Place the straight portion of your hand siphon into the chainsaw’s gas tank. Insert the drainage hose of the siphon into the gas can.
  4. Compress the bulb on the siphon to begin suctioning the gas from the tank into the can. Continue until you have removed all the gas from the chainsaw’s gas tank. If your siphon has a hand pump instead of a bulb, simply work the pump to begin siphoning the gas from the tank.
  5. Unhook the fuel line that connects to the gas tank. The exact location of the line will depend on your specific chainsaw. You may need to remove a plastic guard and small clamp to access and disconnect the line. You’ll also likely need a wrench and screwdriver. A small amount of gas may remain in the fuel line. After you unhook the line, try to hold the line and pour any remaining gas into your gas can.
  6. Pour a small pack of BBs into the gas tank and add a small amount of commercial gas tank cleaner/solvent. This cleaner is at most hardware or auto supply stores. Make certain the cleaner you purchase is acceptable for use in 2-stroke engines.
  7. Replace the lid of the gas tank and shake the chainsaw vigorously. The BBs will act as a mild abrasive and knock any debris loose from inside of the gas tank. Pour the BBs out and flush the gas tank with cleaner. You must ensure all the BBs are out of the tank.
  8. Reconnect the fuel line. Pour the gas back into the tank if you plan on using the chainsaw immediately.


Thursday, 16 July 2015

How to Maintain a Water Pump

Lots of people rely on their water pump and are possibly not near anybody who can repair it for them so here are some quick tips on how to maintain your water pump.

Maintenance


Make sure you turn of the power to your pump and locate the pressure switch. It will probably have some kind of plastic or metal cover on it that you will need to remove. Make sure you put the switch cover somewhere it won't get damaged. If your pump isn't operating as it should be pry back the switch relays and inspect it for damage such as pitting or burning. Clean the contacts and perform any pressure adjustments you feel is necessary.

Cleaning the Contacts


To clean the pressure switch contacts, slide a length of cloth between them and pull the cloth along them several times. Repeat this on the other side until shiny. You can also unscrew the aerator in order to clean the smaller parts or replace it if damaged.

Adjusting the switch


If you need to adjust the switch then you should know that pressure switches are in conjunction with pressure gauges and these are set to turn on at low pressure and off at high pressure. Adjustment instructions are normally on the inside of the switch cover and you will probably need a wrench to turn the adjustment screws but make sure you follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Conclusion


Performing these steps every so often can help extend the life of your water pump and save you money in costly repairs.


Monday, 6 July 2015

How to Sharpen a Chainsaw

There are a lot of people who do not know how to sharpen and regularly maintain a chainsaw and the lack of this knowledge can cost a lot of money to get done for you. So here I am going to show you a few tips on how to sharpen and simple maintenance for your chainsaw.
 

Learn the size of the saws chain

 
You will need either a rotary grindstone or chainsaw file that matches your chain tooth. Since there are several sizes of chainsaw teeth the grindstone or file must be the correct diameter for the saw.
 

Clean the chain thoroughly

 
You may use spirits or a degreasing detergent to remove oil and dirt from the chain. Do not flood or get excessive cleaner on the engine or other components, since some of these products can damage the plastic housing or other parts.
 

Inspect the Chain

 
Individual teeth may be broken or bent and if they get worn down too much they could break while in motion.
 

Clamp the saw

 
The saw will need to be stable and the blade must be firmly supported. You will get better results if the chain is allowed to rotate freely.
 

Locate the leading cutter

 
This is the shortest cutter on the chain and would be the best starting point. If all the cutters are nearly the same length then the starting point you choose will not matter. 
 

Use a twisting motion

 
File each cutter using a twisting motion to discharge metal chips. There is varying opinions as to the best direction to use the file but it really doesnt matter.
 

Reverse the saw

 
Reverse the sides of the saw to do the un filed teeth angled in the other direction using the exact same method.
 

Oil the chain

 
After oiling the chain, check the tension and you will be ready to cut again.


Thursday, 2 July 2015

Different Kinds of Axes

There are a few different kinds of axes each with important differences that not everyone is aware of or what makes these axes suitable for their particular jobs.

Felling Axes


This is normally axe number one used to cut down trees and have an extremely sharp thin blade and slowly tapered head so it can cut across the wood grain as deep as possible. To suit this felling axes have 2.5 to 3.5 pound head and a 2 to 3 feet handle. This gives them a good swing length and the force to go through trees. There are a lot of variations to the basic design depending on where it comes from but most will share these characteristics.

Splitting Mauls


Rather than a deep across the grain cut a splitting maul uses a heavy wedge shaped head normally 6 to 8 pounds which deliver a more forceful strike without sticking in the wood and a nearly straight handle used to lever the maul deeper after the initial strike. Mauls also come with a broad butt that can be used to hammer a second splitter through the log.

Broad Axes


Named for the large bits and long beards they are traditionally used for hewing logs into beams. These axes allow the user to cut away the rounded edges of a log while creating a relatively flat face. The issue is these axes are dedicated left or right handed tools as dictated by the side of the bevel.